Colca Canyon
South America : Peru : Southern Sierra : Colca Canyon
[edit]Understand
Chivay is the hub of the valley, 160 km. from the regional capital, Arequipa, and most visitors will want to take advantage of the La Calera hot springs 3 km. outside of town. Between Arequipa and Chivay, visitors will enjoy passing through a range of unique ecological zones, from desert to altiplano to dry tundra. Animals spotted enroute or in the valley itself include herds of vicuñas (a wild relative of llamas and alpacas) and a variety of birds, of particular interest the giant hummingbird, eagles, Andean geese, flamingos (September through March), and of course the mighty Andean Condor, which can usually be spotted at "Cruz del Condor."
A journey to the Colca Valley usually takes about 3-1/2 hours via public bus, across the high Andean plateau, reaching a high point of 4800 meters (15,800')--so take care with altitude and cold--at the "Mirador de los Volcanes," which offers fine views of several volcanoes that soar to more than 6,000 meters (20,600').
Tourists generally arrive in Chivay, a nice and very friendly town at the beginning of the canyon, with plenty of hotels and hostels, and restaurants--as well as La Calera hot springs. Chivay is a good place to look for high-quality, locally-produced crafts, in particular goods hand-knitted from 100% alpaca fiber, and elaborately embroidered goods produced by hand on sewing machines (hats, coin purses, belts, etc.). Such crafts are also available in some of the miradors (scenic overlooks) along the highway, and in surrounding towns, but do not be confused by cheaper, industrially-produced knock-offs.
Other towns in the valley offer a range of cultural, adventure sports, archeological, and other activities. Between Callalli, at the high end of the Colca valley, and Tapay, in the depths of the Colca canyon, you'll find a range of accommodations and activities, as well as microclimates that vary with altitude. In the cold, dry, highlands, livestock production predominates, focused on alpaca and llamas; in the middle zone, agriculture is more important, featuring products such as corn, quinua, barley, beans, and a variety of potatoes, as well as dairy production; in the canyon, due to the warmer climate, fruit production is possible, including avocados, lucuma, peaches, and apples.
[edit]History
The Colca valley was first populated by hunters and gatherers, probably about 6,000 years ago. Cave art at Mollepunku, near Callalli, is thought to represent the domestication of the alpaca at about that time. There is little evidence of continual habitation until two cultures arrived at about the same time, about a thousand years ago: the Cabanas, Quechua-speaking descendants of the Wari culture, and the Collaguas, Aymara-speakers from the Puno/Lake Titicaca region. They constructed vast expanses of agricultural terraces in the valley, creating irrigation systems to water their crops.
The region takes its name from the qolqas (colcas) that are found throughout the valley, mud and stone granaries built into cliffs or caves where the dry, cool climate makes for an ideal "refrigerated" storage for crops or seeds. (These can be seen at various places throughout the valley, but most easily at the "Puente Sifon" in Yanque.)
In the late 14th century, the Inca arrived, taking the Colca valley into their empire through intermarriage. They helped to perfect the construction of irrigation channels and terraces, and their influence is visible, too, in the stonework of some of the archeological sites.
With the Spanish conquest in the 16th century came the "Toledan reductions," in which the local governor demanded that the population be concentrated in a few major towns throughout the valley, instead of dispersed in their small settlements. This was the origin of most of the towns that are found today. The churches in each town were mostly built between the 16th and 19th centuries.
The Colca first became known to the world after the 1981 "Canoandes" rafting expedition, in which a group of Polish adventurers made the first successful descent of the canyon, and first publicized the possibility of its being the deepest in the world. The construction of Project Majes, a 100-km. canal that takes water from the Colca river to irrigate the Majes region, brought hundreds of workers to the area in the 1980's, and a 1991 article in National Geographic magazine all combined to kick off a tourism boom that began in the early 1990's, and hasn't stopped growing yet.
[edit]Landscape
Volcanic.
[edit]Flora and fauna[edit]Climate
The climate is generally cool and dry. The Andean Summer (November through March)is reliably dry, with sunny days and clear, cold nights. Be prepared for temperatures below freezing, particularly in June, July, and August. The rainy season begins, usually, in December, and lasts through April, with February being the wettest month. Temperatures remain cool, with rain or rain showers most days. The valley is at its most beautiful in April and May, when the fields are green and the mountains snow-capped.
[edit]Get in[edit]Fees/Permits
Visitors are legally required to purchase the Boleto Turistico (Tourist Ticket) for 35 soles (USD 12), administered by Autocolca, the regional tourism authority. The Boleto Turistico provides access to the tourist circuit of the Colca, which includes the entire region, both below Chivay (Cruz del Condor, Colca canyon) and above it (Tuti, Sibay, Callalli). The money collected goes for tourism promotion and infrastructure, and development of community-based tourism.
[edit]Get around[edit][add listing]See
Malata Museo is a small yet interesting insight into village life in the Canyon. 1 sol or so. Worth the 15 minute presentation by the keen Vanessa, in English, Spanish or Quechua.
[edit][add listing]Do
Colca Canyon Tour
The Colca Valley is an area of astounding scenic beauty, with giant Andean terraces and a deep canyon that reach a depth of 3140 metres. A journey to the Colca valley will take you throughout high Andean plateau, reaching at one point a high pass of 4800 metres, which offers fine views of the Volcanoes. Along the way visitors can enjoy unique natural sceneries, as well as animal life; such as herds of Vicuñas (a wild relative of Llamas and Alpacas) and various types of birds, of which stand out the giant hummingbird, eagles, gooses and the mighty Andean Condor. If you like adventure tours, the Canyon also offers wonderful treks down to its button, descending throughout huge mountains, exploring oasis-like valleys, thermal springs, and camping outdoors.
The tours run from Arequipa cost about 140 soles for 2 nights, not including the entrance fee (35 soles) and have a restricted route. We did three nights on our own, staying in various hospedajes in the canyon and in Cabanaconde (the gateway town for the canyon). The complete cost was 175 soles, but we ate well and drank beer. This is much more fun for the adventure traveller than going on a tour, (as they are mostly lame). Suggested itinerary: get bus to Cabanaconde from Arequipa (5 hours, 16 soles). Stay the night in Cabanaconde. Next morning take the 6.30am truck to Cruz Del Condor (4 soles), watch Condors. Get the 9.30am bus back to Cabanaconde (1-2 soles). Next, walk down the canyon to San Galle and eat lunch and swim in one of the 5 pools there. At 4pm or so walk up to either Malata or Cosñirhua and stay and eat at the Museo or Marizio´s respectivly. Next morning walk to Llahuar and stay there and sit in the hot springs. Next morning get out at 6am and walk to Cabanconde to take the 11.15am bus back to Arequipa (or walk to Solo and take the 6am truck and then the 9am bus from Cabanaconde to Arequipa). All too easy, no guide required. The only bit you might get lost on is finding the right path to Llahuar from the thatch rest area (its straight down), and the last day route to Cabanaconde after the bridge (its a small path near a big rock - ask!). Enjoy. :)
[edit][add listing]Buy[edit][add listing]Eat
Food is more expensive than in town. You will have to budget around 8 soles per meal in the canyon and around 3.5 soles at the rim such as in Cabanaconde or Chivay.
[edit][add listing]Drink
good drinks by the lomo dam sation
[edit][add listing]Sleep
In the Colca Canyon here is an abundance of cheap hospedajes in Chivay and Cabanaconde as well as at the bottom of the canyon, such as in San Galle, Malata, Cosñirhua or in San Juan de Cuccho. Price range around 8 soles per night and person.
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Arequipa
South America : Peru : Southern Coast : Arequipa
Arequipa is a city in the Southern Coastal region of Peru just below the edge of the Altiplano, at 2380 meters above sea level and surrounded by three impressive volcanoes. It's Peru's second most important city (after Lima), and the second most popular among tourists (after Cuzco).
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[edit]Understand
In the winter it is warmer than in the summer. It is nicknamed the 'white city' (la ciudad blanca, in Spanish), because many of the buildings in the area are built of sillar, a white stone. This rock was quarried from the many volcanoes that surround the city, including the towering El Misti. Ask for local help to identify Misti, Chachani and PichuPichu, the three volcanoes surrounding the city.
Arequipa embodies a rich mix of the indigenous and Spanish colonial cultures. With 468 years of history since its founding, examples of Spanish colonial architecture can be found throughout the center of the city and several surrounding districts. UNESCO has declared it Human Heritage site. Catholic churches are scattered throughout the center of the city. Some ancient houses have been refurbished by the local authorities and serve as living museums. An example of this are the so-called "Tambos" located at Puente Bolognesi street.
[edit]Get in[edit]By plane
By far the easiest way to get to Arequipa is by plane, landing in Rodríguez Ballón airport (IATA: AQP), 8km from the city. LanPerú [1], Aero Condor and Star Perú fly from Lima, Juliaca and Cuzco. A taxi from the airport to the Plaza de Armas costs a flat-rate of S/15. Signs are posted with this rate, but depending on the size of the car, the size of your bags and your bartering skills you could pay less.
[edit]By bus
There are two terminals serving the city, Terminal Terrestre and Terminal Terrapuerto. They're next to each other, about 3km from the center.... a taxi should cost around 8 soles.
Try to avoid cheap buses — the more you pay the higher the quality, service, and safety. Some of the more reputable companies are Cruz del Sur, Ormeño, Excluciva (full 180º beds with meals served, 130 Soles), Oltursa and Flores (a good budget option. Their station is located across the street from Terminal Terrestre.) If you take the night bus make sure the bus is climated. There are cheap companies like Julsa which don´t use heating in the bus and the temperature can sink close to zero - don´t use them. Compare prices between booking online, in the office or via an agency since it can vary up to 100% for exactly the same seat and service.
From Lima (30-130 soles, 16-18 hours) it's advisable to take non-stop express buses — though more expensive, they tend to be safer. Oltursa and Excluciva buses depart from dedicated VIP terminals in the San Isidrio area of Lima.
There are several buses per day from Cuzco (9 hours, 30-60 soles), Puno (5-6 hours,15-30 soles), Pisco (12-14 hours, 50-150 soles), Nazca (9 hours, 50-150 soles) and Tacna (near the border with Chile, 6-8 hours).
La Paz Ormeños has direct buses leaving at 1AM every day, passing through Puno at 6AM (40 Soles) and arriving in La Paz at 12 midday (60$).
[edit]By train[edit]Get around
The city has a Urban area that can be visited by foot. The historical center, is a 5 block area around the main square and its very easy to visit following one of the many maps available at the hotels or any information office. Some ancient districts like Yanahuara and Cayma are also at walk distance. The rural area is a whole attraction itself. With gorgeous terraces, spaniard mills, palaces and the permanent view of the volcanoes from wherever you are. A great way to visit most of the touristic spots from the rural and urban area is to take a bus tour. This special buses are available at the main square and you can book the tour at your hotel or directly with the bus driver. In two or four hours, according to the tour you book, you will visit most of the famous viewpoints of the city. A great experience (from 6 to 10 dollars). If you want to take a taxi, you should take a "safe one". Rules to recognize them: they have signs on the roof. The more common the sign, the bigger the company and the safer the taxi. Another tip is to take one that has just left a passenger. Avoid taking taxis that are stopped waiting passengers. Prices are per ride. A ride from the main square to any place in the central district will be 3-4 soles. A taxi from the bus station to any hotel, 5 soles. From the airport, the price varies between 15 - 20 soles. Some cab drivers try to rip you off by saying prices are per head but price is always per ride for all passengers. Allow for a minor extra charge for luggage (usually half a sol per major piece).
You can rent a car with a driver included and go all around Arequipa just $6 an hour. There are many trustable taxi companies like Panataxi, Taxitel, Turismo Arequipa and Megataxi. For your safety, if you leave a restaurant or disco late night and want to come back to your hotel in a taxi, ask the restaurant to call a safe taxi.
[edit][add listing]See
[edit][add listing]Do[edit]Learn
[edit][add listing]Buy
[edit][add listing]Eat
Around Plaza de Armas you will find a lot of people approaching you with menu cards and offer you a free drink, etc. Local authority has prohibited this practice, to enforce authority avoid places using this practice. Check prices and hagglea bit for an extra free drink. Food in Plaza de Armas in general is good but not outstanding.
Arequipa keeps one of the most varied and flavored cuisine cultures in the country. Robust, with long term cooking products and with soups as their main dish. Local food is usually served at lunch time but you can also find it in locals for tourists during dinner time.
Hot food is very popular. Locals use rocoto (Capsicum pubescens) to provide the hot taste to their foods. This flavour is different than the hot flavour you find in Indian or Mexican food.
Try Rocoto relleno con pastel de papa, a stuffed, quite large pepper with potato pie. Ask beforehand if it has been made for "tourists" or if it is the original, quite hot, style; if the last one, be careful, it can be extremely hot!
Try Alpaca steaks. This meat very low in fat is juicy and very soft. Presented in all the variations that beef is presented regularly.
This city is the best place in Peru to eat river shrimps. They are presented in several ways, being the most popularChupe de Camarones, a thick soup very flavored and presented with many shrimps in it. Beware, plates here are big.
Arequipa is only three hours away from the sea, so many fish restaurants are available. If you have not tried Ceviche in Peru yet, this is a great opportunity. There are also many other sea delicacies.
Local restaurants are called Picanterias. They are still very popular among locals. Some are within the urban area and some others on the outside of the city. There is a neighborhood called Arancota, where you can find many of this restaurants. Some of them are huge (600 tables or more) and they are usually full of locals. The main food attraction in this area is chicharron (fried pork with corn). Menu's are usually set, consisting of a hearty soup followed by a main dish. Drinks are often included. Prices are generally very cheap, varying from 5 S/ to 10 S/.
As with all Peruvian food: local delicacies are heavy and sometimes very hot. Try them with care, especially since the height of the city (around 2,300 meters) makes digestion slow. Take a mate de coca, coca-leaf tea, after meals: it helps indigestion and makes the altitude more bearable.
For dinner, you can find the best restaurants from the city around Calle San Fransisco:
[edit]Vegetarian
[edit][add listing]Drink
The typical Peruvian drink is Pisco. Arequipa is the craddle for the Acholado type, a Pisco comming from a mixture of several grapes. Locals drink it pure, in little sips. Chilcano is another way to drink it, Pisco with white soda. And of course, the Pisco Sour, which is a must for any visitor.
The local booze is Anis Najar. Chicha and Pisco Sour is also drunk.
The local soft drink is Kola Escocesa, not as sweet as Inca Kola.
There is also a popular mineral water called Socosani. Energina is a yellow soft drink produced with this water. Some other soft drinks area available from the same factory.
Most bars and clubs for tourists are on Calle San Fransisco, uphill from the main square. Many have happy hour specials until 10.00PM.
There is an area of the city called Calle Dolores, with discotheques, kareoke bars, and salsa ball rooms usually attended by locals but safe enough for travellers. The taxi is needed to get there.
[edit][add listing]Sleep[edit]Budget
[edit]Mid-range
[edit]Stay safe
All the usual advice given for Peru applies here as well. Arequipa feels like a somewhat safe city, and like in most of the other major Peruvian cities there is always a fairly large police presence. That said, don't unnecessarily flaunt your valuables or your money. Despite of this, there have been several robberies reported. DO NOT walk alone after 11.00PM in the downtown area!
In the downtown area, there is a fairly large presence of tourist police, wearing white shirts. Ask them for help.
The most common form is when a foreigner takes a no-name cab and some corners later other people are picked up to rob the tourist. To be safe, don't just hail any old cab that passes by. Always take branded taxis (of which you can see plenty). Several of these branded taxis are very careful about the owners/drivers they take on. Consequently, they are very reliable. The best of these is the "Turismo Arequipa" company with a green and white logo (watch out for fakes). "Taxitel" is also good.
The safest way to call a taxi is to ask your hotel or hostel to do it for you. Almost all hostels and hotels have a relationship with a taxi company whose drivers are known and trusted. This holds for the rest of Peru as well.
[edit]Get out
There are many travel agencies, but only few tour operators without commissions. Best operators are Andina (Jerusalen 402A), PeruSchweizExplorer (Jerusalen 314) for Colca Canyon Tours (around 150 Soles for a 3D/2N trip) and Quechua Explorer (San Francisco 218) for hill climbing.
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